5 DESIGNERS TO WATCH FROM THE
LCF MA SHOWCASE
LCF MA SHOWCASE
Presenting SHADOWLOVER Yue Zong's designs are made from cotton yarn manipulated using techniques such as projection-laser engraving and finishing off with high-temperate ironing to create pieces which are stunning in their thoughtful complexity using just one material. The cotton yard is woven beautifully in a repetitive interlocking pattern to create a web like structure that drapes the body beautifully. The muted colour palette of the collection show Zong's reflections on the relationship between shadow and light, which, maybe unintentionally, also explores and challenges what is typically concealed and revealed when it comes to menswear, while also displaying restraint and freedom in the design process and finding a harmonious between the two.
SHADOWLOVER feels extremely modern and speaks to new and evolving definitions of masculinity today.
The Birdcage Effect by Jiabao Wu explores a psychological phenomenon by the same name which manifests in their collection as relaxed silhouettes that flow easily, allowing freedom of movement in the wearer that can contribute to a positive mental space where you are not held captive to conventional patterns of thoughts a la the birdcage effect. What stands out from Wu's graduate collection is the use of analogous colours, taking inspiration from the natural colouring of tropical birds, that create a harmonious effect that is pleasing to the eye. Wu's reference to birds is more overtly executed on a trench-style coat with a curving bird feather print that spreads from the sleeve to the jacket's bust, which is also seen on a loose grey jacket.
Wu's collection has a modest yet confident sensibility in the way the inspirations behind the collection have been translated that will be interesting to watch develop.
Showing Shortcuts for his graduate collection Louis Mayhew's vision is representative of the D.I.Y attitude prevalent in our generation today. Mayhew explores the other definition of shortcut, often passed over for descriptions of laziness and trying to take the easier route, that is a quicker and more direct route which bypasses ordinary procedure. The inspiration for the collection came from working as a painter and decorator where–before he realised it as a concept for his collection–Mayhew observed how his colleagues and himself would alter their clothing to make them more functional for the job, leading Mayhew to think about hacks and modifications made to clothing for aesthetics or to prolong it's life as well as for functional purposes. The result is a customisable approach to workwear that is fun, interesting and made entirely from fabrics sourced from the Watford Recycling Arts Project.
Shortcuts leaves space for continuous discovery and innovation on a concept that is based on the universal lived experience of working and making things work which can be adapted on a personal level or become a shared experience.
Tricolour by Chengjie Dai is an abstract interpretation of migration, borders and cross-cultural communication, distilled through observations about how space is protected and shared by groups and individuals, seen through shapes, colours and layers based on Robert Sommer's theory of personal space and Edward T. Hall's proxemics. The execution of Dai's influences is intelligent and playful and avoids the confines of a literal expression of their research.
Dai's understanding of colour theory and eye for pairing colour shines through in the breezy Tricolour collection which is made from silk heavy satin, plain satin, and silk organza, dyed to achieve the desired colours.
It is easier to be a Monster than a Woman is the confrontational collection by LCF MA graduate Clémentine Baldo that critiques society's constructs of womanhood, particularly as seen in media such as Disney films where young girls are introduced to the princess archetype. For her graduate collection, Baldo finds her stride in opposition to the idea of the princess by exploring the figure of the monster.
Baldo's process involved a cocktail of ingredients to make homemade slime, coating a tulle corset with PVA glue to resemble scarred skin, and using elastic and drawstrings on the body to create rolls and deformities. At first sight, Baldo's collection makes you do a double take, in particular a one-shoulder dress that looks like the meat dress worn by Lady Gaga at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards. There is something beautiful and yet unsettling about the clothes that dares you to look twice, look deeper, be curious and challenge your initial perception.