BAD CONCEPT - A

A–B is a series of photographs created by four African and Caribbean photographers exploring nationalism.

The photographs, created by a team of mostly women, explore themes such as identity, patriotism, movement, style and cultural integration from a fashion perspective.

Scroll down to see the images created by each photographer (click on each image for a closer look) and find out more about each photographer and the process behind creating A–B.

STYLE IN MY DNA by Terna Jogo

The Queen's death and the conversations that arose around the role and relevance of the royal family, home secretary Suella Braverman, who said it's her 'dream' to see a flight take asylum seekers to Rwanda, and Nigerian Independence day coming and going on October 1st last year led me to think about what nationalism means for African and Caribbean people living in Britain and how it shapes our identities.

As a photographer who loves fashion and believes photography and fashion are powerful tools for exploration, meaning making and reflecting the zeitgeist, I wanted to explore the theme of nationalism, and all of its offshoots, with the inclusion of other perspectives outside of my own, the result of which was A–B.

It wasn't easy organising a team of twenty people but it was so rewarding seeing everyone come together on the shoot day for the project.

Being Nigerian and growing up in Church, I saw African and Caribbean style expressed through the congregation whilst being integrated and adapted for the UK climate and British culture. I wanted to explore how nationalism can manifest through style, which can be used to express pride for where you're originally from, but also integrate stylistic codes of the culture and country you currently inhabit. The title of my images is taken from Lorna Holder's amazing book 'Style in my DNA' which documents Caribbean style in Britain. It was important for the models to be styled in African and Caribbean designers who reference their homeland and culture in their designs. I encourage you to check out Noémie Wilson, Gravalot, Daily Paper and Jévon if you don't know about them already.

Finally I wanted to try and capture an inherent cool that I believe Black people have when it comes to style.

Creative Direction and Photography: Terna Jogo / @shooter_terns
Stylist: Terna Jogo / @shooter_terns
MUA: Christiana Amankrah / @christianaamankrah
Models: Zinzi / @mynameiszinzi, Jenssy / @metal_state_, @w_modelmgmt
Designers: @dailypaper @jevonlondon @futurebrandthinking @noemiewilson @gravalot

MOVE by Tari Esewe-Bastel

As a photographer, my practice is mainly focused on fashion and portraiture. Seeing the creative direction of other photographers in how they can completely manufacture the entire environment, from the set design to the manipulation of lighting, has inspired me to get into fashion photography.

Being a British-Nigerian woman I felt it was important to commemorate and celebrate my culture. Growing up and seeing various family members adorning these fabrics and attending parties and weddings made me reminisce about my childhood, so I wanted to showcase this in a series of images, in a contemporary way, that is visually captivating.

Through the use of Nigerian lace fabric, I wanted to capture the movement of the material. Sometimes, I feel that some fashion shoots can be static and be more model focused. I wanted to try and change the way that African fabrics are looked at. Instead of making the image about the models I wanted the fabrics to take centre stage. I realised that growing up in a predominantly white neighbourhood, I felt embarrassed of my culture and how they dress because it doesn’t fit or look like the average western attire. However, that doesn’t mean that it’s something to be embarrassed about, but rather be very proud of. This project has made my fall in love with my culture even more than before and I’m proud to share that with everyone.

Creative Direction and Photography: Tari Esewe-Bastel / @tari.photography
Stylist: Terna Jogo / @shooter_terns / Tari Esewe-Bastel / @tari.photography
MUA: Evanne Alarnah / @evannealarnah, Jackline Edwards / jacxx_mua
Models: Alya / @alyaadekola, Jordanian / @jordaneyaz, @w_modelmgmt

WESTERN MASQUERADE by Tati El-Mallah

Creative Direction and Photography: Tati El-Mallah / @tatimallah
Stylist: Terna Jogo / @shooter_terns
MUA: Jackline Edwards / jacxx_mua, Lara Nasamu / @ffyyoobb
Models: Abiola / @abiolx.o_, Liza / @liza.bilal, @w_modelmgmt
Assistant: Alexandra Prokhorova / @alex7.p
Designers: @jevonlondon @gravalot @futurebrandthinking @diesel

Having moved from the United States to Britain in the past year, I was shocked to realise how many cultural ties I felt to the country on a day to day basis. For the past two years, living in New York, there was a subtle undertone of acculturation. In order to assimilate into American culture, I was slowly letting go of my Nigerian and Lebanese heritage. With photography and artistry being one of the only places I felt I could express my background wholeheartedly.

When planning out my portion of the shoot for A–B I wanted to find a cathartic way to merge my American and Nigerian influences in a way I had previously been unable to. I have always been drawn to 70’s era Africa, having been raised on the aesthetics of Kevin MacDonalds “The Last King of Scotland” and Biyi Bandele’s “Half of a Yellow Sun”.

Using western 70’s styling influences and stylistic indicators of older Igbo masquerade tradition, I wanted to find a way to construct images out of time and out of culture. It was important to me to make these symbolic nods to both cultures and integrate one with the other. Using fringe in a lot of the styling, which is recognised as quite an American aesthetic, to communicate the long textural beads and feather work of Igbo people. All leading towards crafting a sort of utopian history, where Igbo and American aesthetics exist hand in hand.

LAND WE LOVE by Rŷanna Allen

‘Land We Love,’ follows the topic of nationalism by showcasing the integration of Caribbean fashion by descendants living in London. Through the use of fashion and patriotic colour palettes, I wanted to encapsulate the pride and nationalism that is passed down through generations. Growing up in West London with Caribbean heritage, I was constantly surrounded by Jamaicans who used their clothing as a way to express themselves. From bright vivid colours to smart, formal wear, I wanted to incorporate fashion pieces from Caribbean designers, and pieces inspired by the Caribbean, to highlight how Jamaican style influences and is adapted by the next generation.

Creative Direction and Photography: Rŷanna Allen / @ry_collective
Stylist: Terna Jogo / @shooter_terns
MUA: Kayla Selway / @afrolion_mua
Models: Kijuan / @kvstheworld, @w_modelmgmt, Shay / @shayshyvonne_
Assistant: Alexandra Prokhorova / @alex7.p
Designers: @jevonlondon @selina.knitts @sineadgoreylondon